Concrete driveway installation & replacement
A driveway that's graded, poured and finished to actually last.
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What's included
A new or replacement concrete driveway starts below the surface, not with the pour. If there's an old driveway or asphalt in the way, it gets removed and hauled off, then the base is excavated and graded so water runs away from the garage and foundation instead of pooling against it.
We compact a stone base under the slab — typically several inches of aggregate, more where the soil is expansive clay or loose fill, which is common across parts of the Inland Empire and Orange County. A base that isn't compacted right is the single biggest reason driveways crack, heave, or settle unevenly within a few years, so this step gets as much attention as the pour itself.
Standard passenger-vehicle driveways are typically poured 4 inches thick with wire mesh or rebar reinforcement; driveways that need to carry RVs, trailers, or heavier trucks get poured thicker with additional reinforcement. Control joints are cut at intervals sized to the slab thickness so the concrete cracks along planned lines as it cures and expands with Southern California's summer heat, instead of cracking randomly across the surface.
How it works
Step by step, here's what actually happens on site:
- 1Remove the old driveway, walkway, or asphalt and haul off the debris.
- 2Excavate and grade the base for proper drainage away from the house or garage.
- 3Compact a stone base sized to the soil and the expected load — deeper where the soil is expansive.
- 4Set forms, place rebar or wire mesh, and pour to the agreed thickness.
- 5Finish (broom, exposed aggregate, or stamped), cut control joints, and cure before the driveway is used.
Why All American Concrete
Driveways take the most abuse of any concrete on a property — daily vehicle weight, summer heat, and whatever soil is underneath it. We size the base and reinforcement to the actual load the driveway needs to carry instead of pouring the same generic slab for every job.
We give a real, itemized estimate before any work starts, and the person who bid the job is the person involved in building it.
Our process
- 01
Free estimate
Walk the property, talk through what you want the space to do, and get a real number — not a lowball that changes once the crew shows up.
- 02
Demo & prep
Remove old concrete or asphalt if needed, grade for drainage, and compact a stone base sized to the soil and the load the slab needs to carry.
- 03
Pour & finish
Form, reinforce, pour, and finish to the agreed spec — broom, stamped, exposed aggregate, or a decorative finish — with control joints placed to control cracking.
- 04
Walkthrough & cure guidance
Walk the finished work together, confirm it matches what was agreed, and cover cure times before the surface sees foot or vehicle traffic.
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Concrete driveway installation & replacement FAQ
How thick should a concrete driveway be?
4 inches is standard for passenger vehicles. If the driveway needs to carry an RV, trailer, or heavier truck regularly, we'll spec it thicker with additional reinforcement so it doesn't crack under the extra weight.
How long before I can park on my new driveway?
Concrete is typically safe for foot traffic after 24–48 hours and vehicle traffic after about 7 days, though it keeps curing and gaining strength for close to 28 days. We'll give you exact timing for your specific pour and finish.
Can you pour a new driveway over my old one instead of removing it?
Usually not recommended — cracks and unevenness in the old slab tend to telegraph through a new layer over time, and it doesn't fix whatever base problem caused the original damage. Removing and repouring gives a driveway that actually lasts.